Just for Fun

Wedding Guest Dresses For A Barn Wedding

Victoria Knight

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If you know the wedding is going to be casual for sure, leave the suit at home and wear a blazer and pants. A barn wedding is a perfect time to try out accessories like a bow tie, suspenders, or fun patterned socks. View this post on instagram. A post shared by michael baldinger (@mbshoedoc) on aug 13, 2020 at 6:37am pdt.

Women's elegant midi bodycon dress sleeveless backless ruffle hem mermaid formal wedding cocktail dresses. 4. 1 out of 5 stars 15. $37. 99 $ 37. $2. 00 coupon applied at checkout save $2. 00 with coupon (some sizes. Whether the wedding takes place in a rustic barn in the mountains or at a modern city venue, read on for the best fall wedding guest dresses. Our top picks for the boho guest: Jazz up your outfit with a unique bag, belt or shoes to embrace the vibe of the venue. Leave the ball gown at home. Since a barn wedding errs on the more casual side (though not typically casual enough to warrant jeans), you'll want to leave your black tie attire at home.

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Plus Size Dresses For Mother Of The Groom

Victoria Knight

This short, soft pink. Badgley mischka forbidden territory gown in black. Plus embellished scoop neck short jacket dress. Plus size chiffon and lace empire waist gown.

Yes, you can wear black as mob or mog. Just make sure the bride is o. k. Black is actually quite elegant, and we all know it can make you look ten pounds thinner, which is a bonus. (2,082) $134. 00 free shipping. Womens 3pc jacket,vest & pant set. Evening wear, weddings, mother of the bride or groom, party dress,church suit, special events. Shop mother of the groom plus size collection at ericdress. com. You will find lots of mother of the groom plus size with fashion designs and good prices. Casual dresses a line dresses plus size dresses tops bottoms swimwear activewear sexy lingerie teddies & corsets & stockings babydolls & chemise panties & bra clubwear & costumes.

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How to Make a Sensory-Stimulating Book

Shendy

I don’t do a ton of sewing for my son. I love the end results, but most projects take so much more time than I can realistically give them. But this crunchy-page soft book? This can be made in four nap-times or less. (Isn’t that how all new moms measure time?)

I also love that this project is a great way to use scrap fabric, up-cycles old plastic you already have in your house, and can be made as long, or short as you like. And since we’re using patches as book graphics, you can take your book’s theme in almost any direction you like. It’s completely customizable.

Materials:

Solid color fabric in 12 x 6 inches (or 6.5 x 6.5 inch squares for muti-colored pages)
Tailor’s chalk
Ruler
Scissors
Iron
Spray bottle
Copy paper
Pencil
Iron-on applique patches
Batting
Fabric adhesive sheets
Sewing machine and thread
Plastic baby wipe pouch (empty), emergency blanket, or plastic grocery bags
Needle and embroidery floss
Large button
Large Rick Rack
Glass head pins

Begin by spritzing with water, then ironing all of the fabric you intend on using. To simplify this project, make all of your pages the same color. Measure and cut rectangles that are 12 inches by 6 inches.

I wanted each page to be a different color, so with my ruler and chalk I measured 6.5 x 6.5 inch squares and carefully cut them out with scissors. Note that you could use a rotary blade, but with regular scissors, you *can* get kids (ages 11+) involved in making this book for their younger siblings or cousins, whereas rotary blades and kids make me a little uneasy.

Gather the iron-on applique patches you want to use in your book, as well as a few pieces of copy paper and a pencil. Fold your papers in half, length-wise and cut or gently rip them along the fold. Then, fold those long paper pieces in half to make a paper book. Use this paper book as your guide. Mark the pages with the names of the patches you want to use, and number each page. This will help you tremendously when you sew your fabric “pages” together.

When your paper pages are established, place your iron-on patches, and fabric pages in the same order as your paper book.

Set the patches aside. Put the fabric squares (if using different colored squares like my example) together with right-sides facing each other. Use your sewing machine with a straight stitch to sew a 1/4 inch seam allowance on one side of the squares. You should end up with one rectangular piece of fabric made of two different colored squares.

Continue sewing your fabric squares together until you have all of your fabric rectangles complete.

Place your iron-on patches in the center of your fabric squares, and follow the instructions provided on the packaging.

Once the patches have cooled down from being ironed, use your sewing machine and a straight stitch around the edge of the patches to really secure them.

After all of the patches have been stitched, sandwich a piece of batting between your fabric pages. Use the paper book as a guide to ensure you are matching the correct fabric fronts and backs together (This is where the numbered paper pages come in handy!) Note that if you are making a book with four rectangular pages (front and back) plus a cover for your book, you will only need three pieces of batting.

On the wrong-side (back side) of two of the fabric pages, apply a sheet of fabric adhesive and gently press the batting in place. Cut your batting down to just smaller than your fabric page if you haven’t already.

With the batting secured, put the pages from your fabric sandwich together with right-sides facing each other. Pin the fabric pages together. If you used two different colored squares to make your rectangle, you can align your seams by inserting pins directly into the stitched seam of both layers.

If your fabric pages are not perfectly matched up, trim away the little excess fabric with scissors. Use your sewing machine with a straight stitch and 1/4 inch seam allowance, and sew around the entire border of your page- MINUS a few inches on one side of your rectangle.

Use your scissors to push the corners all the way out on all sides of your sewn fabric page.

Use the spray bottle and iron to press the pages. Then pin the remaining hole closed with the seams tucked inside of the fabric pages.

With a straight stitch, sew around the entire border of your fabric pages. Take care to make sure your open fabric hole is sewn closed.

When both fabric pages have been completed, place them on top of each other in the order that matches up with your paper book, and sew them together on your machine. Pin along the middle seams to align everything evenly.

Your inner pages are done! Now select a heavier weight fabric for your cover, spray it with water, and iron it well.

Cut your fabric down to a 12 x 6 panel and cut a piece of batting to the same size. Gather your scissors, adhesive strips, a plastic grocery bag for a subtle crunch, a plastic baby wipes pouch for a medium crunch, or one of those metallic looking emergency blankets for a very crunchy crunch!

Apply a sheet of the fabric adhesive to the wrong side of your soft book cover.

Use the crunchy plastic material of your choice, and press it into the adhesive. Then place another piece of permanent fabric adhesive on top of the plastic layer, followed by batting.

Pin the right-sides of the cover pages together, and sew a 1/4 inch seam around the perimeter, leaving a 2-3 inch gap on one side of the rectangle un-sewn.

Turn your book cover right-side out, and sew the gap closed as you did with the inner fabric pages.

Sandwich the cover and inner pages together, then use the straight stitch on your machine, to sew along the middle seam of your fabric book.

I wanted to add a little something extra to my son’s soft book, but since I used a decorative fabric for the cover, I decided that a trim of large Rick Rack would be a nice addition without being too busy or distracting. I pinned the Rick Rack around the front and back perimeter of the book cover, then sewed it down, leaving the 3/4 inch space that spans the book’s spine, un-stitched.

I used embroidery floss to sew an oversized button to the front cover of the book, and knotted a loop into the back cover of the book to act as a clasp.

There are certainly little stitching imperfections within the crunchy-page soft book (mostly occurring while I was sewing and listening for my boy to wake from his nap.)

But regardless, he seems to love the book’s bright colors, crunch and yet cozy cover and all of the fun cars, planes and vehicles within the book.

As far as sewing projects for babies and small children go, this one has to be one of the most achievable and gratifying ones around.

And for those of you who are curious, I purchased my patches off of Amazon. They are all made by the brand “Patch Mommy.”

Also, for those curious, my 14-month-old son has not been able to take his hands off the soft book since I completed it!

Happy sewing!

Short Dress With Slits On The Side

Victoria Knight

Classy flare feather sleeve blushing pink slit prom gown. Side draped gold satin long prom dress with slit. Shop over 1,000 top short side slit dress and earn cash back all in one place. Also set sale alerts and shop exclusive offers only on shopstyle.

Give your outfit an instant update with a subtle display of skin with this side split edit. Shop from open side tops to side split bottoms, keep scrolling for new season essentials. Side splits are perfect for showing some skin without braving a plunging neckline or a thigh skimming hem. Black dress with slits on the side. (38) £29. 95 free uk delivery. 100% rayon also available at our baton rouge, louisiana boutique. Medium:bust 96cm (38inches), waist 81cm (32inches), hips 102cm (40inches) inchoose a short black dress with side slits and a plunging neckline to wear with a pair of over the knee boots. For a weekend worthy combo opt for a double side split dress and wear with strappy heels and a mini shoulder bag to steal all the stares. Update your new season collection with a side slit dress, shop the collection online today.

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How to Craft Doll Dresses

Shendy

How To Craft, Crafts Projects, Craft Idea

Doll dresses are fun to make. First, however you must learn the rules for beginners to make quality designs. To start you will need to consider fabric. Some people like multi-colored clothing, however the clothes must harmonize to deliver quality dresses.

To make sure that you accomplish quality doll dresses, you will need the right equipment and tools. You will need a sewing machine, cleansers, universal needles, including stretch needles, pins, olfaa panel, and a rotary or gyratory cutter. You will also need hand-sew needles, dressmaker scissors, sewing scissors, fabric glue and pen, greaseproof paper for tracing, pencil, measuring tape, lace, ribbons, fasteners, elastic, paper scissors, etc.

Before you get started, you will need to clean your sewing machine. Use “Dust Away,” to spray your machine near the bobbin region. You will also need to clean the bar where the needles are installed, as well as the “tension” discs at the top. Once you clear the machine of dust, use a drop of oil.

Now you are prepared to make doll dresses. Before I forget, make sure you have thread, specifically DMC broder if you intend to make French dresses.

How to trim

You can use the pin tuck method to trim your doll dress. You will need twin needles, and a foot that is designed for pin tucking. Set up your machine. The right needle should be clockwise while the left counterclockwise. At the “tension” discs, you should have the left needle threaded on the same side, and the right needle threaded on the right thread. To keep your dresses fresh, you can use starch to spray your dress prior to pin tucking.

How to pin tuck skirts

When pin tucking skirts make sure you leave some space.

How to pin tuck sleeves and/or bodice

Take a square of your fabric and pin tuck it. You can cut out the upper section of the dress and/or sleeves after. Keep in mind when you start pin tucking for sleeves and bodice, the fabric size is modified, or reduced.

If you are not familiar with pin tucks, you can tuck your doll dress. To tuck you merely consider the size and width of your garment. To start you press down, pressing the folded center. Along the fold and edge of your fabric, stitch the width precisely. As long as you stay consistent within your stitching lines, you will do fine. You should always start sewing at the grain after pulling a single thread.

After you complete your dress, or near the finish, you may want to consider bows, tassels, smock, or hand sewn objects. Hand embroidering is ideally used in finishing. Use a range of DMC embroidery to make finish your dress.

Smocking is the added finishing whereas you use patterns to complete your dress. Silk ribbons, satin single and double ribbons make up a great pinafore, or back dressing.

Tassels are easy to make, yet you will, need crochet threads and/or embroidery thread to complete your mission. You will also need cardboard in which you will need to cut out a part a length longer than your tassel. Use your thread, wound it around the cut part, and continue until you have achieved the thickness you desire. At one end of the part, use the same thread and channel it through the thickness. Next, tie the thread so that it knots and at the opposite end of your part, cut. Do not cut your thread. Now you are ready to make your tassel.

To finish, at the knotted region, convey your thread so that it meets with your tassel. Next, wound another part of thread about the finish of your tassel a few times. Knot the area so that it is taut. At the finish of your tassel, skid the thread in to fasten your finished work. If the finish necessitate cutting to make sure it is constant, do so now.

How to Craft Chimes

Shendy

Did you know that you could take old reddish-brown clay made of unglazed ceramics to make chimes? (Terra Cotta Pots) The pots will make up a nice batch of chimes. To get started you will need up to ten ceramic pots. The diameter should be around 1 ¼ inch and up to 1 ¾ inches. You will need wood, 4 inches time’s six plates and varnish finish. You will need up to ten 5/8 inch grommet screws. Add up to ten rounds of beads made of wood and around 3/8 inches of spool, i.e. up to 30 pounds of anglers’ line. You will need wire up to 20 yardsticks, i.e. spools and a 7/8 inch grommet screw.

How to make chimes

Now you are ready to make your chimes. On the wooden plates, add a coat of varnish, allow drying, and continuing a few times adding the varnish as needed. Use your grommet 5/8 screw, and screw it in by hand, screwing it into the plate. If you add, additional screws keep them an inch apart. Cut your line measuring lengthwise. Next, at each end feed the line through, and into the grommet screw. Work the line through until you reach the lower region of the vessel.

Once you finish the step, run another line measuring lengthwise through your beads of wood, and fasten so that it forms a dual bond. You can use adhesives to fasten the area if you feel the need to do so.

Take the other vessels you have available to create your chimes, threading them and regulate the measurement lengthwise as needed. You can now add the grommet 7/8 screws to hang your chimes. Fasten the screws at the middle of your crown plate. Use the wire outlined in this article to hang your chimes.

You are now finished with your chimes. To complete this article I will give you a few tips on crafting snakes to place beneath the lower areas of your door so that you can keep wind out during the cold months.

If you do not have a yard of fabric around your house, purchase a yard of strong textile weaves of fabric or corduroy. You will need thread that coordinates with your fabric. In addition, you will need stuffing, dry beans, and rice. Add some adhesives and felt, preferably red, white, and black.

Next, gather your fabric and trim up to 10 inches wide, and around 6-inches lengthwise. Measure your door before cutting, since you will need length wider than the bottom area of your door. Use two parts of the outer regions of your fabric, gather and hand or machine sew at least 3 sides and around 3/8 inches away from the edge of your fabric. You will need to leave a short region of your fabric available. On the right side of your fabric conceal your seams and add your filling, i.e. stuffing. Turn up your edges and then stitch them and choose additives to design your snake.

You can use glue, buttons, studs, etc to make your eyes if you choose to do so. As well, you can use your felt to make up the mouth, nose, and so on. Use the red felt to make the lips, tongue, etc, and the black to make up the surrounding features about the eyes, since as lids, or brows.

The snakes will make up a great warming gift also. You can craft a few to give to your friends, as well as keep a few around your home to keep it warm in the winter months.

How to Craft Bridal Collections

Shendy

Perhaps someone in your family is planning a wedding. In this event, you are probably struggling to decide what type of gift the groom and bride would appreciate.

Well, rest your mind and purchase a bit of finishing materials, such as small and large pillows, crochet thread, white fabric, matching thread, and some stuffing to craft a bridal present.

You can add some plants with three-lobe leaves (Trefoil), roses and so on to create a magnificent bridal gift.

What to buy

Buy one 20-inch square pillow without the ruffles. Buy another 20-inch time’s 10-inch pillow without the ruffles also. You will need, thread (10) and 250 yards of white balls, as well as (10) crochet hook made of steel, and 45 inches wide of snow-colored fabrics. (Nine Yards) Add some snow-colored thread and purchase your filling. You are about to make 9 inch squares on a gauge to create six rose (or choice flower) motifs.

How to start

Create eight chain stitches at the start and work them into a slipstitch. You will form a small band, which you will continue to create a chain stitch and around 24 single crochets forming at the bands and moving to the beginning single crochet.

Create four chains, skip three singles, and create six times working to the following single crochet, creating a slipstitch that begins at the baseline of your starting chain. Create a single crochet, double, and three triples, along with another double, and single working it into your four chain loops and around your slipstitch created at the initial single.

Hold your rose petals at the front, continue to chain five stitches into a single, and work back into the following single in between your petals. Repeat your steps around the slipstitch and continue to the first single and onto the six petals.

Create a single, double, and three triples as well as a single crochet into the five-chained loops created and about the slipstitch started at the first single. Stitch another seven chains, work it into a slipstitch in the middle of your stitches, and continue to the following petal. Chain seven stitches to the slipstitch following and move to the beginning two rose petals. Repeat your steps and work around your slipstitch, working to the beginning baseline of your chain.

Slipstitch again and work toward the middle of the stitches, working another seven chain loops into another seven and slipstitch it into the middle stitches, continue to the following seven chain loops and repeat the steps working around your slipstitch at the beginning base chain. Work up to seven single crochets into the seven chains loops and work around your slipstitch, working to the single you started.

Chain stitch and work into a single crochet, working it into the seven singles and the three chains, and into the slipstitch in your third chain away from your hook. You have created a decorative loop, which you will create twice by finishing the instructions. Single crochet until you reach the following fourteen singles and repeat working around the slipstitch you created at the first single.

Chain twenty stitches skip through seven singles and two decorative loops, six singles, and the slipstitch that works into your following single, skipping up to six times and slipstitch working to the initial single. Single crochet, working into the following stitches of your decorative loops and do this four times before you reach the single crochet in the following five stitches. Repeat the steps and work about the slipstitch, working to the first single. Tighten and then start your large leaf.

How to Craft Basket Flowers

Shendy

We have walked through the steps of creating the May basket, now it is time to craft your flowers. We have added handles, basket, etc, to your quilt, which at this time you should have created six blocks to make your basket.

How to create flowers

We are quilting flowers. On the left side of your fabric, you will have invented pink squares. You can trace your pattern to start your project. Trace at least one flower (Choice), use your outside solid lines, and repeat your steps to create the foliage, or leaves. Use the variety of green patterns and use the yellow narrow pieces to create the center of your flower.

You can design roses if you like. Use a variety of greens, red, pink, white, etc, if you intend to create roses and petals. Along the lines, you have marked, cut the fabric strips sewn onto your fabric, the shaped patterns that form your design, cutting only near the lines. Use freezer paper and turn it over so that you reveal the side that does not have a shine. You want to create a starting line for the six centers of your flowers, and the flowers also. Once you mark the 12 parts, mark the leaves (12), marking them inside the dash lines. Now you are ready to cut your shapes.

You will need an iron and board. Use your hot press, or iron to press the flowers on your paper, pressing in the middle of your flowers on the left side and in the middle. You want the glossy paper turned in the direction of your fabric flower at this point. Do the same with the center of the flowers and foliage.

Next, collect your yellow filament/thread and tone it with the center of your flower. If the colors do not match, try another shade of yellow. Run lines of stitches into your cloth, which encloses the ring of the freezer paper. You want to congregate your material around this ring, so pull your filament up at the end. Now, tie your thread, press the ring, and use your starch bottle, spraying the region. Do the same for the center of your flowers.

Next, use your variety of green filaments that match your leaves and collect the allowances at the seam. (1/4 inch) Collect around the foliage and streamlines of stitches along your fabric, about the enclosed region of your ring that is designed on the freezer paper. You want to collect your textile about the ring. Pull your filament/thread up at the finish and tie it, pressing the ring. Again, spray with starch.

When you congregate your allowances at the flower seams, snip the inner points of the flower corolla/petals where the flower collectively forms a ring. You will need to collect your thread that matches the color of your petals, such as pink. Just as you collected the edges of your leaves, do the same for your corollas. Once you finish running stitch lines in your fabric, which you have enclosed freezer paper about the ring, you will need to gather your material about the ring. Next, pull your strands of thread up at the finish. Next, bind your filament and then press the ring. Press, and spray the region with fabric starch. Now seam your allowances, i.e. snip the central points of the leaves, flower center, etc where the flower collectively forms a ring. Press and starch to complete your crafting task:

Now you are ready to assemble the top of your quilt. After you assemble, you can move to finish your craft.

How to Craft an Afghan

Shendy

How to Craft an Afghan. You will need a 40 inch by 60-inch material to finish your Afghan. Once you have the finish you can start building your materials.

How to choose materials

It’s up to you what type of Afghan you want to create, however in this article I will show you a few steps in my the “Ivy League.” You want to select deep, vivid colors. Ultimately, you can select soft fabrics. You will need wool, preferably the heavy-duty. Purchase 45 ounces of aqua, red, etc, in a variety of colors. Choose 22 ounces of red, light green; dark greens, forest green, etc, and blue. Choose 28 ounces of red and navy blue in a variety of colors. You will need to purchase a hook, preferably the “K” crocheting hook. The gauge is around 6 ½ squares, which you can purchase a hook that matches this gauge also.

How to square

Use a variety of colored yarns in succession per square. If you want to shift colors, it is best to avoid chain stitching at the end of your lines. Start turning your work until you connect with the colors, chain stitch I row and work your line in accordance.

To chain stitch, start with placing one slip knot over your crochet hook. Your hands should be prepared to work, which includes the thumb and middle left finger. Hold the yarn at the end and then wrap up and again over your crochet hook. You should be crocheting at the front of the back and to the front. Learn more about “Yarn over Yo.”

When you start you, Afghan you will need to square, row, row, border, assembly, border, etc. When you start squares, create 54 squares on a chain two stitch. Move to row. To row one work, you will need three single crochets in your second chain stitch and away from your hook on another single chain turn.

Move to your second row. Work two single crochets in your first single crochet and move to the following single crochet and the second, single crochet in the last single. Continue with five stitches and chain another single turn.

In your third row work two single crochets in your first single, continue singles within the following three singles, adding two more singles to your last single, and then chain another turn.

Moving to the fourth row, work two singles in your first single and then single crochet an even row to the last single. Work another two singles to the last and chain one turn.

Next row, repeat by adding four rows and after you reach rows eleven up to twenty-three begin your stitches across the material.

Continuing, create a loop in all of your first two singles. Use the “Yarn over Yo” method and move through all three of your loops on the crochet hook, which brings you to one single crochet and the decreasing phase. Next, single crochet two even stitches to decrease your last two singles and churn one turn. Repeat the steps on the twelve rows, yet only stitch three single crochet remains.

On your last row create a loop in each of your preceding three singles and start the “Yarn over Yo” method to continue through each loops on your crochet hook and then close.

Now you will start border rounds. Gather your greens, blue, and reds with a slipstitch in your corners. Do another three singles in the corner and another single to the following corner making sure the singles are even. Repeat the steps from about, and slip stitch toward the first single crochet.

On your second and third rounds, slip stitch toward the middle stitch of your corner, and repeat the round once, and close after your finish the third round.

Now you are ready to assemble. You should have a six square Afghan created, which is wide and has another 9 squares lengthwise. You want to oversew stitch (Whipstitch) the square togs and run ALL crosswise stripes so that they move in the same course. Now, border another round. Gather your yarn with another slipknot at the corner, and single crochet three in the corner, single crocheting another in the following corner, while making sure it is even. Repeat, stitching around and slip knot to reach the first single. Round two includes the slipknot to the middle single crochet of your corner, repeat round one, and close.

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